2010 Trip: Paris Day 1
6th June 2010
A squeaky bed, loud dorm mates, and an open curtain encouraged an early rising. After sampling the delights of the breakfast room - synthetic coffee and orange juice, hunks of cheap baguettes, jam, La Vache Qui Rit cheese wedges, apple sauce and something that vaguely resembled cereal, I headed off to explore the town.
After a prolonged subway journey, my first stop was the Pompidou centre. Unfortunately, I misjudged the French propensity for rising late - the museum was not to open until 11am. I suppose it has to be said that it was a Sunday. So I wandered through the streets, the weather a tad inclement and spitting slightly.
I stopped of in a church to observe a Sunday service and even in the middle of Paris, was delighted to see that this was a family affair - very interesting to watch! All the local families slowly gathering and socialising. A particular highlight was the black minister who sung a rousing and very beautiful hymn (in French). He tried to encourage the congregation to join him. Unfortunately (or fortunately) his powers in singing significantly outweighed any ability at persuasiveness.
From here I continued through the streets, admiring the stunning architecture, the ‘metropolitan’ metro signs, and the occasional sculpture that dot the landscape of central Paris. My next stop was the Louvre. I think this was mostly out of trying to think of something better to do with myself for the morning! I was lucky, I had got there just as the museum opened for the day and the line was moving rapidly. I didn’t have to pay to go in as museum entrance, on the first Sunday of every month, is free!
It was already fairly crowded inside and I wasn’t really in the mood for long periods of art watching in crowded areas, so I took in some of the highlight of the Roman, Greek and Egyptian collections, was annoyed to find that the Ottoman and Greek vase sections were both under renovation.
Then I headed for the picture galleries, admiring the small collection of Flemish painters, before going to the great wing of the Italian masters. Here, the museum’s prize possession, the Mona Lisa is held. Let’s be honest, it is just as inspiring as the next painting. By this time, the museum was absolutely packed. I found that watching the crowd avidly staring and photographing was more interesting. There was no less than three different physical barriers keeping people at bay, let alone the security staff.
I realised I was late for my next engagement, a free walking tour that starts from Notre Dame. So I strode out of the gallery, to find to my amusement that the line now stretched almost a kilometre. I walked down the Seine and got there exactly two minutes late. Fortunately, the guide was still there. I was a little surprised to find no one else with him, but it was nice to get an entire tour all to myself! We headed around the back streets of the Ile de la Cite and learnt about the history of the island, all the way back to Roman times when it was all that existed of Paris, the early universities, the cloisters for monks, the change and unification of architecture under Napoleon by his architect Haussmann, and lots of interesting a quirky bits and pieces. Eventually we returned to Notre Dame, I wandered off and grabbed a crepe with lots of nutella for lunch. Very healthy. Unfortunately the area is very touristy so finding anything actually worth eating at a decent price is nigh impossible.
At 1:30pm, I caught up with the same guide again as he was doing another tour that day. We headed across the river and to the south, this time with a few more hangers on. We went through the university district and heard stories about famous people who were associated or had lived in the area. We ended up at the Pantheon a couple of hours later. I went in and took a look around at the massive frescoes adorning the walls and the tombs of famous French-people in the crypt below - names like Voltaire and Madame Curie.
From here, I headed back to Notre Dame and this time actually went inside, I wandered around admiring the stained glass windows and then listened to some of a service. I left when the communion section of the service started. I find French a rather difficult language to follow, especially on paper, so the service leaflet was absolutely no use whatsoever.
I grabbed a falafel wrap and a glass of really bad white wine and then retraced my steps to the Pompidou centre and spent its last opening hour observing some of the very modern art exhibitions, particularly relating to Feminism. It was rather blah really, I didn’t get much out of it. However, the buildings architecture was pretty cool and watching the sun start to sink over the buildings of Paris was pretty cool.
Not to have the evening undone by watching the sunset in only one place, I headed back to Notre Dame and now, with the crowd thinned, I jauntily ascended one of the towers, covered with chimera and gargoyles. It was a bit of a walk up but the views were stunning. I spent a couple of hours watching the sun sink and the lights come on over the city. Very beautiful and romantic, even if I didn’t have anyone to share it with. Awwww.
From here I wandered along the Seine in the street light, crossing the bridges and people watching. Eventually, I made it all the way up the Champs-Elysees to the Arch de Triumph and just in time to catch the last subway back to the hostel somewhere around midnight. Phew, that was a full-on day!